Red leaf plum, like its name, its leaves are often purplish red. Among the green leaves, it is like an invincible flower. It is a famous foliage tree species. So how is red leaf plum planted? Let's go and have a look!
Planting technology of red leaf plum breeding method of red leaf plum (basic knowledge): the best breeding time: the cutting time of red leaf plum is from late November to mid December; Budding was carried out in mid and late June; The strip pressing operation is carried out from mid April to mid May in spring.
The best growing soil: red leaf plum has strong adaptability to soil, is not resistant to drought and is more resistant to water and humidity, but it grows well in fertile, deep and well drained viscous, neutral and acidic soil, and is not resistant to alkali. Gravel soil is better, clayey soil can also grow, with shallow roots and strong sprouting ability.
Requirements for growth and humidity: red leaf Li Xihuan is slightly moist to dry climate. The best growth humidity is maintained at 75 to 85%. Spray can be used to maintain humidity. The higher the temperature is, the higher the number of sprays. The lower the temperature is, the less the spray will be.
The optimum growth temperature: the optimum growth temperature of red leaf plum is 15 ~ 30 ℃, and the optimum temperature of rooting is 20 ~ 30 ℃.
Best growth light: red leaf Li Xi has a sunny environment and is slightly shade resistant, cold resistant and adaptable.
Precautions for red leaf plum cultivation technology: fertilizer application:
In addition to applying an appropriate amount of rotten and fermented fertilizer at the bottom of the pit during planting, some farm fertilizer can be applied every year before pouring sealed frozen water, which can make the plant grow vigorously and the leaves bright. It should be noted here that although red leaf plum likes fertilizer, it only needs to be fertilized once at the end of autumn every year, and it should be appropriate. If the fertilization times are too many or the fertilization amount is too large, the leaf color will be dark but not bright, reducing the ornamental value.
Key points of watering:
In addition to watering the newly planted saplings three times, they should also be watered once or twice in April, may, June and September. There is abundant rainfall in July and August. If it is not too dry, it can not be watered. When there is a lot of rain, it should also be drained in time to prevent large root rot. In the first ten days of November, sufficient and thorough frozen water shall be poured. In the management of the second year, it should also be watered once in early March, April, may, June, September and early November. From the third year, it is only necessary to pour enough water, thaw water and seal water in early spring and early winter every year. Watering should be controlled in autumn, because water will cause excessive growth of branches and suffer freezing damage in winter.
Pruning Essentials:
After the plant enters the dormant or semi dormant period in winter, cut off the thin, pest, dead and dense branches.
Basin soil replacement:
Turning basin: as long as it is maintained properly, it will grow very fast. When it grows to a certain size (about two to three years), it is necessary to consider changing it into a larger basin so that it can continue to grow vigorously. The culture soil and component ratio for basin change can be one of the following: vegetable garden soil: slag = 3:1; Or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust (Ru residue) = 4:1:2; Or one of paddy soil, pond mud and rotten leaf soil.
Take off the pot: put the flowers to be changed on the ground, pat the sides of the pot with your palm first, so that the root system is vibrated and separated from the basin wall, put the pot upside down on your left hand, gently clamp the plant with the index finger and middle finger of your left hand, press the edge of the basin with your wrist and fingertip, pat the bottom of the basin with your right hand, and then push the root soil down from the bottom hole with your mother finger to take off the plant. After taking it off, gently pat the basin soil with both palms to let the excess soil fall off.
Pots preparation: choose a suitable flowerpot. The bottom hole of the basin is covered with two tiles or thin foam sheets. It is necessary to ensure that the basin is not washed out of the water, and the excess water can flow out in time. Tiles or foam will be placed on a layer of ceramsite or broken red brick, as a filter layer, about 2~3 centimeters thick. Fertilizer machine fertilizer is placed on the drainage layer, about 1 ~ 3cm thick. A thin layer of substrate, about 2cm thick, is paved on the fertilizer to separate the root system from the fertilizer. Finally, the plants are put in and filled with nutrient soil, leaving about 2 ~ 3cm from the basin mouth.
Planting techniques of red leaf plum
Breeding points:
1. Cutting propagation
The cuttings are prepared to select the tree with the age of 3 to 4 years and strong growth as the mother tree. After falling leaves in late autumn, the current year branches without diseases and pests can be cut from the mother tree, or the branches with thick, full buds, no diseases and pests and mechanical damage can be used as cuttings in combination with plastic pruning. Cut the selected cuttings into branch segments of 40-50 cm, bundle them according to 100-200 pieces, and bury them in wet sand for storage.
The cutting time is from late November to mid December. Cutting method before cutting, first cut off the branches just cut or stored in wet sand, cut off the thin and weak branches and water loss and shrinkage parts, and then cut the long branches from bottom to top to grow 10 to 12 cm and cuttings with 3 to 5 buds. The lower end of the cuttings is cut into a smooth slope near the bud to increase the contact surface between the cambium and the soil, which is conducive to rooting. Cut the upper end of the cuttings 0.8 to 1 cm from the bud hole into a plane. After cutting the cuttings, immediately immerse the lower slope in clean water for 15 to 20 hours to make the cuttings fully absorb enough water. Use 50 × 10-6abt6 rooting powder is mixed into rooting agent in proportion and dipped into cuttings to facilitate rooting. The cutting slope is inserted into the soil downward, and the plant row spacing is 5 × 5 cm, the upper bud is 0.5 to 1 cm above the ground. After cutting, water shall be drained and irrigated immediately to make the cuttings closely connected with the soil. After the ground is slightly dry, cover it with double-layer plastic film to preserve moisture. At the same time, build a small plastic arch shed 1m high and the same width as the border surface on the border surface to facilitate heat preservation and cold resistance.
2. Budding method
Rootstocks can be used as seedlings of peach, plum, plum, apricot, mountain peach, mountain apricot, peach and purple leaf plum. In comparison, Peach Rootstocks have strong growth potential and purple green leaves, but they are afraid of waterlogging; Plum rootstock is more waterlogging resistant; Apricot and plum have a long life, but they are also afraid of waterlogging. Apricot, mountain peach and peach are the most commonly used rootstocks in North China.
Generally, two-year-old seedlings are selected for grafting rootstocks. It is best to cultivate rootstocks. Before grafting, they should be cut short, and only 5-7 cm stumps on the surface should be retained. In mid and late June, the bud position should be set on the branches selected as scions in advance, and the buds should be full and strong, free of dry tips, diseases and pests. Use the sterilized budding knife to cut into the xylem at an angle of 30 degrees upward at 2 cm below the bud position until 1 cm above the bud position, then cut a knife horizontally at 1 cm above the bud position, gently remove the budding, and then cut a "t" shaped cut on the bark with a knife at 3 cm above the ground, so that the budding and rootstock can be closely combined, and then tied with plastic tape. After grafting, the grafted buds do not wilt in about 7 days, indicating that they have survived. The plastic belt can be removed in about 25 days.
3. High altitude strip pressing method
1) Selection of branches: plants with strong tree potential and no diseases and insect pests shall be selected. The branch diameter is generally 1-2 cm, and 2-4-year-old branches are the best.
2) The strip pressing operation is carried out from mid April to mid May in spring. Select the appropriate part on the strip and mark two notches with a grafting knife, with a spacing of about 1.5cm. Then peel the skin between the notches, put on the plastic bag immediately after peeling, tie the plastic bag at the lower part of the lower notch, and then put the mixed sandy loam mud into the plastic bag and pinch it into a ball, The mud ball shall be wrapped around the stripping part and placed in the middle of the mud ball, and then the upper mouth of the plastic bag shall be tied.
3) After the later treatment plastic bag is sealed, it should be checked frequently to see whether the mud ball is dry and hard. If the soil ball is soft, it indicates that the binding effect is good and the soil moisture content is high. After about 45 days, the wound can heal and begin to take root. After falling leaves in late autumn, cut the strip at the lower part of the mud ball, cut the plastic bag and transplant. If it is dry and hard, it means that there is air leakage in the plastic bag. Inject water with a syringe immediately, and put another plastic bag outside the original plastic bag.
Pest control:
Red leaf plum diseases and pests mainly include red spider, thorn moth and bag moth. If they occur, they can be sprayed with 40% Omethoate emulsion 1000 times.
Planting techniques of red leaf plum