Potted flowers are nothing new now, especially potted lilies. Looking at other flower friends drying out their cultured potted lilies, many flower friends are also ready to breed at home. This article is Huayou's summary of the precautions for cultivating Potted Lily. I hope it can be helpful to you who are ready to move!
Precautions for cultivating potted lilies precautions for cultivating potted lilies: when purchasing lilies, you first need to confirm whether they are bulbous roots. Only plants with bulbous roots can bloom repeatedly for many years (Oriental lilies are slightly less complex). Some potted lilies sold in the flower market are seeded, and even fresh cut flower branches are directly inserted into pots, Both of these situations belong to the category that you can throw away after watching the flowers of the current season.
The safe way is to buy seed balls directly. Lily seed balls are divided into constant temperature balls and frozen balls. The constant temperature balls are sold directly after autumn, and the frozen balls are sold after sub zero temperature treatment. In order to control the flowering period, normal temperature balls can be wrapped and sealed with sawdust or peat soil and stored in the refrigerator at about minus 5 degrees. The storage time can be up to about one year until they are planted at normal temperature in spring, The frozen ball needs to be planted directly and cannot be frozen repeatedly.
When the daytime average temperature reaches 10 degrees in spring, it can be planted. Its good growth and flowering temperature is 16-25 degrees. When the ambient temperature is lower than 5 degrees or higher than 30 degrees, it basically stops growing. When the nighttime temperature is lower than 5 degrees in winter and lasts for 5-7 days, it will seriously affect flower bud differentiation and flower bud development, leading to bud elimination or flower cracking. The continuous high temperature of 30 degrees in summer will also affect growth and flowering, Buds disappear or the whole plant withers and turns yellow.
No matter potted or ground planting, Lily needs a high planting depth, that is, deep pits and basins. Lily likes loose, moist and well permeable soil. Slightly acidic soil with pH value of 5.5-6.5 is the best. Asian Lily and tiepao lily have relatively higher alkali resistance and heat resistance than Dongfang Baihe, which is more suitable for planting in the north.
Lily bulbs can be soaked in low concentration carbendazim water for half an hour before planting. The soaked bulbs can be planted by controlling the surface water in a cool place. If there are rotten and injured scales on the bulbs, they can be directly stripped off.
The pit or basin shall be paved with a thick subsoil mixed with fertilizer. Seaweed fertilizer, bone meal or plant ash are good choices. Pay attention not to use too much fertilizer, because other fertilizers will be applied during the growth period. About 5cm of soil without fertilizer shall be paved on the subsoil to avoid direct contact between the seed ball and the fertilizer. The seed ball with roots shall be paved and placed on the soil surface, Long roots can be properly cut off before planting.
Precautions for cultivating Potted Lily
The height from the top of the seed ball (excluding buds) to the surface is slightly greater than the height of the seed ball itself.
In order to promote germination, cover the soil 3-4cm thick first, and then cover the soil 4-6cm when the plant starts to grow. Planting in summer is two centimeters more than that in other seasons, increasing the heat insulation effect of the soil. After planting, it needs to be watered once, and then it can be kept wet, but avoid waterlogging, otherwise it is easy to rot the ball. Lily bulbs with a circumference of more than 10 cm are considered adults and have good flowering ability.
The new ball will bloom for more than two years, and the plants and flowers are slightly smaller than the adult ball. With the increase of ball age, the number and size of flowers in many varieties will increase. Several small balls will be derived around the healthy adult seed ball to expand the lineup. Therefore, whether potted or ground planting, there should be a plant spacing of about 10 cm for its development.
Lily doesn't like continuous cropping. Dig out seed balls, replace new cultivation media and clean up new balls at least every two years. Lily with very good growth conditions will also grow bead buds for reproduction in leaf axils. These buds are broken off and covered with thin soil for potting, and will grow into large flowering balls in two years.
The average period of Lily from budding to flowering is about 90 days. After budding, when the leaves expand, high nitrogen and high potassium fertilizer is applied once a week to promote growth. Be sure to control the concentration to avoid fertilizer damage, rotten leaves or rotten balls. I irrigate my roots with thin fertilizer and water once a week, and spend a lot of high nitrogen and high potassium alternately. In addition, extremely thin seaweed semen body fertilizer is sprayed on the leaves every two or three weeks to help fully absorb the fertilizer.
Supplement high phosphorus fertilizer once before pregnancy, and try to avoid the use of phosphorus fertilizer at other times. Excessive intake of phosphorus fertilizer will cause the whole lily plant to wither and even sacrifice. Balanced fertilizer and high potassium fertilizer were applied alternately after bud, in flower and after flower. Single fertilization is easy to cause fertilizer damage.
Precautions for cultivating Potted Lily
Don't apply fertilizer in hot summer, and don't spray leaves if you can irrigate roots. Because the water evaporates quickly in hot days, high concentration fertilizer crystals will remain on the leaf surface, resulting in burns. I try to spray leaves on continuous cloudy days or irrigate roots in cool evenings.
Sufficient light plays a decisive role in the flowering ability of lily. Except that Oriental lilies need proper shade in the hot season, other lilies can spend summer smoothly in the north.
In order to prolong the flowering period, the middle pistil or the surrounding six stamens can be removed at the beginning of flowering. As long as the pollination work is not completed, it will remain open. Adding potassium fertilizer during flowering will make the flower color more gorgeous and the flowers larger. After flowering, the residual flowers should be removed in time to prevent excessive consumption of nutrients.
Note that only the residual flowers should be trimmed, and the branches should be retained. Continue the photosynthesis long ball.
From the end of June to late autumn is an important stage for Lily to absorb nutrients. In addition to keeping the medium moist, it is still necessary to ensure light. And supplement leaf balanced fertilizer every 20 days or about a month. In the north, the withered branches on the ground can be removed in late autumn. In the south of the Yangtze River, the seed ball can be dug out and frozen in mid and late November. Winterization is very important for Lily and lays a good foundation for beautiful flowers in the coming year.
Precautions for cultivating Potted Lily