Spring is coming,
If you want to make your home full of flowers and plants, you should not only buy but also buy,
We can also help them breed,
One to two, two to four! Learn quickly!
1、 Sowing conditions sowing time is about spring and autumn, usually spring sowing time is from February to April, autumn sowing time is from August to October. If there is no seedbed, pot sowing, open field sowing and drilling can also be used.
2. Sowing steps
① Before sowing, wash the basin and fill the hole with tiles.
② In the basin paved with coarse sand or other coarse medium as drainage layer, and then filled with screened fine sandy loam, the basin soil was compacted and scraped flat, then sowing could be carried out.
③ Some large seeds, such as Impatiens, can be evenly seeded one by one, then compacted and covered with a layer of fine soil. Small seeds, such as cockscomb, can only be sown evenly in the basin, and then gently compact the basin soil, and then cover a thin layer of fine soil.
④ Water is sprayed with a small eye watering pot, or the sowing basin is placed in the pool by soaking method, and the water is infiltrated from the bottom to the top until the whole soil surface is wet, so that the seeds can fully absorb water and nutrients.
⑤ Then cover the basin with glass or film to reduce evaporation.
⑥ The soil should be kept moist from sowing to emergence.
⑦ In the morning and evening, the cover should be lifted for a few minutes to make it ventilated and then covered during the day.
⑧ Once the seed shoots out, the covering should be removed immediately so that it can see light gradually. It can not be exposed to strong light immediately to prevent sudden death of seedlings.
⑨ If the seedlings are too dense, the weak and strong seedlings should be removed immediately to prevent overcrowding, so that the remaining seedlings can get sufficient sunlight and nutrients, and thrive.
⑩ The seedlings should be watered immediately after thinning, so that the remaining roots will not die due to loosening. When 1-2 true leaves grow, they can be transplanted. 2、 Ramet condition: the varieties flowering in early spring should be divided after flowering. The best flowering time is in early spring. 2. Rametting steps
① Ramet propagation of tuberous roots
If the root of Dahlia becomes a lump and the buds germinate in many places on the rhizome, the root tuber can be cut (with buds attached) and planted in another place, that is to say, a new plant is propagated.
② Division propagation of corms
The stem is shortened and plump, and becomes oblate or globular, such as gladiolus, tulip, freesia, tulip, etc. The natural meristematic bulblets on the bulblet were planted separately to cultivate new plants. Generally, it can't bloom in a very small year, but it will bloom in the next year. Because of the decline of growth ability, the female ball can be eliminated year by year. The breeding season is determined according to the time of digging and planting. After digging the bulb root, separate the ball which is too small and put it in the ventilation place, so that it can be planted again after dormancy.
③ Ramet propagation of rhizomes
For the large underground rhizomes, such as Canna and bamboos, which lie horizontally in the ground, part of the rhizomes with 3-4 buds are cut off and replanted on each long stem with a sharp knife.
④ Ramet propagation of perennial plants
After three or four years of planting or two or three years of pot planting, the clump of perennial root plants can be propagated in spring and autumn because of the large clump. The root system is divided into 2-3 clumps, each with 2-3 main branches, and then planted separately. Such as Hemerocallis, iris, Cymbidium and other flowers.
⑤ Ramet propagation of clumping and sprouting shrubs
It can be divided into two types, i.e. Syringa, Syringa, Syringa and so on. The other is the flowers and trees which are easy to produce root tillers. The sprouting tillers from the mother roots are divided into different parts and planted separately, such as bamboos, Jasminum nudiflorum and peony. 3、 Cutting method 1. Different cutting conditions, different plant cutting conditions have different requirements. In general, herbaceous plants have greater adaptability to cuttings propagation; except that open cutting is not allowed in cold winter or dry summer areas, cuttings can be carried out in all seasons under suitable temperature conditions. 2. Cutting steps ① leaf cutting
Plant leaves as cuttings are usually used for plants with strong regeneration ability. It can be divided into whole leaf cutting and partial leaf cutting. When the leaves with petioles are used for cutting, they are easy to take root. There are leaf margin, vein and petiole. The leaves of African violet can grow roots in petioles when inserted in soil or soaked in water. The leaves are cut into several sections for cutting, and the leaves are longer, which can be cut into 7-8 cm in length. They can be cut into pots obliquely and can be rooted and germinated from the lower part of the leaves. Succulent plants produce one or more new plants from one leaf.
② Leaf bud cutting
A cutting method in which a leaf is attached to a leaf bud and a few stems, between a leaf and a branch. The stem can be cut off near the bud, leaving a little longer under the bud, so that the growth potential is strong and the rooting is strong. Generally, the suitable length of cuttings is 3 cm. Rubber tree, evergreen, Hydrangea and Camellia can be propagated by this method.
③ Cuttings
Because of the difference of materials and time, it can be divided into hardwood cutting and tender cutting.
Hardwood cutting: after defoliation or before sprouting in the next spring, select the mature and robust, well-organized, pest free annual and biennial branches, cut into about 10 cm long cuttings with 3-4 nodes. The cutting edge should be close to the internode, and the upper end should be cut into an inclined opening to facilitate drainage and insertion into the soil.
Softwood cutting: that is, softwood cutting. The length of the branches is 7-8 cm, the lower leaves are cut off, and a few upper leaves are left for cutting. Such as chrysanthemum, poinsettia, geranium, Begonia and so on.
Semi hardwood cutting: it is mainly the cutting of evergreen flowers and trees during the growth period. Take about 8 cm of the half mature branch tip of the same year, remove the lower leaves, leave two upper leaves, and insert 1 / 2-2 / 3 of the soil, such as Osmanthus fragrans and rose.
④ Rooting
Using root as cuttings to propagate new seedlings is only suitable for the type of root which can produce new shoots. In general, the larger the root is, the stronger the regeneration ability will be. The root can be cut into 5-10 cm long, and it can be inserted obliquely or horizontally to produce adventitious buds and fibrous roots, such as Paeonia lactiflora. The part near the root head has strong germination power. The root of Sedum sarmentosum is small and can be cut into 2 cm small sections and spread on the basin surface and then covered with soil.
In addition, Chimonanthus praecox, peony, gerbera, Salix, persimmon, walnut, Malus rotundifolia can be used for root cutting. Management after cutting: the main management after cutting is not to see strong light too early, shade and water, keep moist. The management of root cuttings and hardwood cuttings is relatively simple, and it can not be frozen.
Soft branch and semi-hard branch should be carefully managed to keep basin soil moist to prevent water loss from affecting survival. After rooting, irrigation should be reduced gradually, light should be increased, liquid fertilizer should be applied once after new buds grow, and plants can be transplanted after growing. In addition, in the whole management process, attention should be paid to pest control and weeding. 4、 Layering condition layering method is a method of burying a branch of a plant in the soil without separating from its parent. It is mainly used for flowers that are difficult to take root, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Osmanthus fragrans, Jiexiang, Milan, etc. 2. Laminating steps
① Single branch layering
Take the branches close to the ground as the layering material, and bury the branches 15 cm deep in the soil. Cut or peel the branches embedded in the ground. The top of the branches is exposed to the ground, fixed with bamboo hooks, covered with soil and compacted. Forsythia suspensa, Podocarpus grosvenorii, Tripterygium wilfordii, etc. This method can also press several branches around a mother plant to increase the number of breeding plants.
② Earth mound
This method is mostly used for clumping flowers and trees. In the first year, the shoots can be cut short to promote the germination of lateral branches; in the second year, the base of each lateral branch is cut and piled up with soil, and then transplanted separately after rooting. This method can be used to propagate clumps of flowers and trees, such as Spiraea, Jasminum nudiflorum, golden bell, etc.
③ Corrugated strip
Bend the branch on the ground, cut the branch several times, bury the cut in the soil, cut and transplant after rooting, and then form a new individual. This method is used for species with long and flexible branches.
④ High altitude layering method
This method is usually used for the species with erect plant shape, hard branches and not easy to bend and root tillers. Select the mature and robust branches of the same year, and perform ring peeling or cutting. Wrap the girdling with plastic film, tie it tightly with ropes, and fill it with moss and soil with suitable humidity. After the new roots grow, cut off the film, and plant new individuals. The layering does not separate from the mother body, and it depends on the mother body for nutrition. Pay attention to the burying soil and compaction. The time of cutting off the mother varies with the variety. The rose can be cut off in the same year, and the Osmanthus fragrans can be cut off over the years. When planting, try to bring soil to protect the new roots and facilitate survival. 5、 Grafting conditions grafting is a method of using a part of a plant to graft on other plants to propagate new plants. The dormancy stage of grafting is usually in the first and middle of March, and some species sprouting earlier are in the middle and late February. The grafting time in autumn was from early October to early December. In the growing period, bud grafting is the main method. July to August is the suitable period, and peach blossom and rose are mostly grafted during this period. 2. Grafting steps
① Splicing
The upper part of the selected rootstock was cut off horizontally, about 2 cm was cut longitudinally on one side, with a little xylem to expose the cambium. One end of scion branch was cut into 2cm long, inserted into the rootstock, aligned with the cambium, and bound firmly.
② Butt joint
The scion and rootstock are placed in one place, and the close parts of the two branches of the same thickness are cut off 3-5 cm long, reaching the xylem, and then they are close to each other and aligned with the cambium, so that the cut surfaces are closely connected and tied.
③ Budding
In this way, the full lateral buds in the middle of the branch are cut off and the petioles are left. Together with the cortex of the branches, the buds are cut into 2 cm in length with a little xylem. Then, the bark of the rootstock is cut into a T-shaped shape, and the cortex of the thin slice is lifted with a budding knife. The bud is inserted, and the buds and petioles are exposed by binding with plastic film.