Sihai network

Five tips for growing vanilla plants

Vanilla plants have always been a "frequent guest" of friends' home plants. However, many friends don't know much about the cultivation of vanilla plants. This article is a clever trick from senior flower friends. I hope it can help you.

5 tips for planting vanilla plants 5 tips for planting vanilla plants: Tip 1: watering too much.

The most difficult problem for novices is probably watering. It's the same when I first started planting things. I'm always afraid that it will dry to death. Go and see if it's dry and whether it's time to add some water. Maybe it's not enough to water twice a day. When I see which planting guide says that a variety needs sufficient water, I think it should be watered frequently. Do you have a familiar feeling?

In fact, watering is really not a quantifiable thing. There is a famous saying that I still remember: 90% of novices grow things by pouring rather than drying. As for the situation of dry death, I'll talk about it later. Let's talk about how not to water indiscriminately.

For different plants, the watering criteria are different. Here we only talk about the watering law of herbs (vegetables can't be generalized because the soil we use is different). It is: don't do it without watering. It means that if the basin soil is not dry, do not water it, and then water it until the excess water in the soil is almost exhausted. However, the degree of dryness and wetness needs to be grasped by experience. It can neither be watered when it is slightly dry nor after it is completely dry.

This shows that the basin soil is completely dry, that is, the leaves droop. After watering, the leaves will recover water in a short time. Water before this stage and slowly estimate that you will have experience ~

Patchouli

A good way to teach here is the "pot weighing method", which I have always used. When watering the flowerpot, you weigh the weight of the flowerpot. At that time, it should be very heavy (if your hand doesn't feel very good, you can also use the kitchen scale), and then hold back the hand that wants to water. When you see that the soil surface becomes pale and dry after a day or two, insert your finger vertically into the soil along the basin, If you feel dry, remember to weigh the flowerpot again at this time, remember the feel or weight, and water it according to this in the future. After you are proficient, you will know whether it is time to water.

Therefore, watering can not be quantified as "watering once a few days". Imagine that if it is continuous cloudy days or the air humidity is very high, the water evaporation will be very slow. If it is still watered according to the dogmatic fixed days, it is bound to cause waterlogging.

If you water too much often, it will lead to poor soil permeability and root rot - because the root also needs to breathe. There will also be pests. If the soil is too wet, it will increase the probability of pathogen transmission, and underground pests will also occur. For example, nematode disease is a typical pest caused by excessive soil humidity. At that time, I watered twice a day, and soon there were translucent molluscs twisting around in the soil. Although it was very small, it was really disgusting. And although it was two years ago, it was really disgusting to think of it. At first, I tried to pick out the insects bravely, but then I saw that they were almost all drilling around in the soil. I immediately felt stuffy, angry and dizzy. I couldn't help it. The herbs I planted for the first time had to be thrown away.

Why not stay? Because with their appearance, xiaoheifei will also show up. If it is not handled in time, other potted plants will be taken by xiaoheifei to nematode eggs and continue to harm other potted soil. However, you can't use chemicals for what you grow and eat, and the general organic potion or the organic potion you prepare doesn't have such a rapid insecticidal effect. In addition, if you irrigate the soil, too high concentration will affect the normal development of the root system. Too low concentration is equivalent to adding insult to injury to the already wet soil. Therefore, only a small part can be sacrificed for the health of other flowers and plants.

rosemary

Coup 2: after talking about watering too much, I also talk about the problem of insufficient watering. Although this problem is not as common as the first one, it is also very universal, especially in the two aspects of not watering thoroughly and mixing soil to install pots.

There are also four words to describe too little watering: "watering is watering thoroughly". Once watered, it should be watered through to the bottom hole of the flowerpot. Instead of watering, only half of it is watered. The upper half is wet and the lower half is dry. In this way, the root system will still be dehydrated. The correct watering method is: water the flowerpot slowly and evenly until the bottom hole leaks out, and pour out the water gathered in the bottom bracket after about 3 minutes.

But this needs to pay attention to another problem, that is, if the basin soil is dry peat soil, it may flow out as soon as it is watered above. Does this mean that the soil has been completely wet? No, it's peat soil. It's too dry to eat and water.

There are two reasons for this:

1. I haven't watered for a long time

2. When mixing the soil, it is not completely wet before putting it into the flower pot

Some TX mixed soil is mixed with soil, put it into the flower pot and then wet it. In fact, it is easy to cause the soil to not be completely wet. It is very likely that the soil surface looks wet, but if you dig deeply, the middle of the flowerpot is dry. This situation is very common. It will lead to stiff seedlings after seed germination, or the transplanted plants grow stiff and grow too slowly, all because of the uneven lack of water. The best solution is to mix it well and evenly, and then put it into the flowerpot to let the bottom hole flow out excess water. Only in this way can it be regarded as qualified soil mixing.

So what if there is a problem of drying out? A good way is to "sit in the basin", that is, put a container larger than the flowerpot (of course, it's best to find an abandoned one) and put water in it - the water volume should not exceed the edge of the flowerpot after putting it into the flowerpot, otherwise the soil will float out. In this way, sit for half an hour to an hour and try again. You will find that because of the principle of the connector (ha ha, science students passing by), the water will slowly suck in the flower pot from the bottom hole and then completely infiltrate the peat soil. At this time, the weight is the weight of the flower pot to absorb water. After watering under the conditions described in Article 1, the plants can absorb it normally.

perilla frutescens crispa

Coup 3: reluctant to top.

In fact, this psychology can't help "dredge", because I was tangled at that time, but now I don't have this tangle at all, because every time I need vanilla for cooking or daily necessities, I will pick the topping part, which will naturally help the vanilla topping and supply the kitchen and daily life normally. Therefore, it can only be said that if you plant herbs, you should actually plan the use of the planted varieties in your life, so that your reluctance will be overcome slowly. Topping is essential for vanilla itself, especially for potted vanilla. If it is never topped, it will be super thin and tall. Not only the yield of vanilla leaves is low, but too high height will lead to its lodging.

I've seen chopsticks or gardening supports used to fix the main stem of vanilla before. I want to say that in fact, this is the result of not topping. The solution is to "snap" at the three pairs of real leaves on the soil. In a few days, side buds will grow, and a seed will sprout, which can top a whole basin of vanilla, and the leaves are inexhaustible. So the more willing, the more fruitful.

Of course, in addition to using it, you can also use it for cutting hydroponics or direct soil culture (novices do not recommend direct soil culture cutting), so that new seedlings will be propagated. No waste at all, ha, there are many ways to use ~

Lavender

Tip 4: reasonably arrange the placement of potted plants.

Generally, we have some concepts about orientation and illumination. However, we need to find out why the sunlight is unevenly distributed when placed together under the same sun.

Sometimes, due to plant characteristics, even the seeds sown at the same time, as time goes by, some seedlings may be very tall or so short when they grow up, such as tomato and Cherry Radish. How can the height of Cherry Radish not exceed that of tomato? Then the tomatoes placed side by side in the flowerpot may block the sun that the Cherry Radish was well exposed to, especially when planted on the balcony. If the plants in front block the back row, the back row will never be able to direct the sun. Therefore, always check whether your flowerpot arrangement is scientific. Plants should be arranged from low to high under the same light demand, so as to ensure harmonious sharing of the same sunshine.

Mint

Tip 5: fertilize vanilla.

In fact, no matter how small it was last time, you can have a vanilla garden to talk about this in detail, but TX often asks me if I can put rice washing water or eggshells.

I would like to say that please don't put all kinds of kitchen waste in your clean basin soil, which can't be directly absorbed by plants.

If you really want to use kitchen waste, you must go through a complete and long composting process, which takes about a year. The purpose is to make the accumulated kitchen waste become organic fertilizer through fermentation and microbial action. The original intention is good, but it is not suitable for balcony people. Generally, their own composting is more suitable for families with land, and the planting range is large. Then it is not cost-effective to use commercially available organic fertilizer, so we can consider their own composting.

However, for those who show their strength on the balcony or just try to plant, there is no need to compost by themselves, because it will naturally have a little odor (naturally generated in the fermentation process), especially for the whole indoor or semi indoor living environment. I think the organic fertilizer on the market is actually enough to grow vegetables and herbs on the balcony. It won't cost a lot, the effect is also very good, and there is no problem of environmental pollution.

TX often asks why your potted herbs and vegetables are about the same size as those planted in the field, because many people have the impression that the potted herbs and vegetables should be small and may be malnourished, so many people will have doubts about potted vegetables.

Of course, this is closely related to fertilization, and my method is "thin fertilizer and frequent application". Because it is a potted plant, the soil is not suitable for organic fertilizer with strong fertility. Generally, the description always says "place under the soil". The black chicken fertilizer is good, especially the oil Oxalis cake fertilizer, which is easy to burn roots because of its high fertility. The manifestation of fat injury is: the original smooth leaves suddenly have small concave convex, or the leaves are deformed.

How to make soil fertility strong without burning roots? The method I have used so far is to put organic fertilizer (black chicken fertilizer and oil sorrel cake fertilizer) into a watering pot, soak in water and fertilize water instead of directly putting fertilizer in the soil.